You graded the route 5.14. We ended the pitches at the old aid belays. Add your email to the Canadian gripped newsletter mailing list: Get the digital edition of Gripped for your chosen platform: This field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged. I had also top-roped the face pitch. It was such a team effort. Daryl Hatten and John Simpson made the first ascent of the 13-pitch line in 1978 and named it after a friend of Hatten’s who had died that same year in a small-plane crash. For me, success came when I stopped thinking about success. “The next two pitches are 5.13 and 5.13-R respectively. He hung from a nine-millimeter rope and swung across the side of the granite mountain, scouring each square foot for features in the rock that could be climbable. The Bugaboos are a world-class alpine playground with striking granite spires that contain some of the most beautiful vertical cracks on Earth for rock climbing. We have six in Canada: Cobra Crack 5.14b, Family Man 5.14a, La Zébrée 5.14a, Sugar Daddy 5.14a, The Path 5.14a and Tom Egan Memorial Route 5.14a. Original: Aug 23, 2015. Neither of us had really been climbing that well on it, and it still seemed just out of reach. As climbing standards have progressed over the last 40 years, many of today’s top climbers are seeking out former aid routes as objectives that they compete to “free.” This means they will try to become the first people to ascend the route without falling, without pulling on gear, and by using only their hands and feet to make upward progress. Stanhope and Segal had spent the past three summers in the Bugaboos trying to free-climb their own version of the Dawn Wall, a reference to the world’s longest, hardest rock climb on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park, California.

The incipient crack was named Blood on the Crack, after Bob Dylan’s record Blood on the Tracks, but also because the sharp granite crack often left Stanhope and Segal with bloodied, battered fingertips that looked as though they had stuck their hands in a blender. It's an absolute miracle that the dots connect and this pitch goes free.

The jams are next to nonexistent. How important is it to have the right climbing partner for a big, hard objective? Will Stanhope and Matt Segal joke that their climbing project, in British Columbia’s Bugaboo Provincial Park, was the “Dawn Wall of the north.”.

© 1996-2015 National Geographic Society, © 2015- The rock changes character a bit here and goes from bone-white, perfect granite to slightly flakier, golden rock. WS: Absolutely imperative. August 23, 2015 - The most inspirational climb this week undoubtedly was Will Stanhope’s send of the Tom Egan Memorial, the free version of an old aid route on the east face of Snowpatch Spire in Canada’s Bugaboos.

Stanhope first rappelled the 13-pitch route in 2010 with Hazel Findlay. And we had fun. Because the start of the headwall crack on the Tom Egan was too thin to climb, they had to figure out a bolt-protected face climbing variation leading from an adjacent route, Sweet Sylvia,over to the Tom Egan. If somebody links all the crux pitches ledge to ledge one day I’ll be the first in line to hand them an ice cold sixer of beers.”.

On the east face of Snowpatch Spire, Stanhope noticed a 300-foot crack bisecting the gray granite rock face. Maybe one day someone will link all the pitches on this route and create the world’s first alpine 5.15.

Below is a list compiled by Willis Kuelthau at 99boulders. “There are no hands off free stances on the entire fourth-pitch crux headwall. The first is the Drunken Dawn Wall Pitch, a.k.a.

During their final push, Stanhope redpointed all of the pitches but Segal was unable to complete the crux face traverse. From Aug. 11 to 14, Stanhope and his partner Matt Segal climbed the 1978 Daryl Hatten and John Simpson A3 on the East Face of Snowpatch Spire, Stanhope freeing every pitch. By day, they threw themselves at some of the most difficult rock climbing sequences either of them had ever attempted. The last hard pitch is Ivokanee (5.13- R). I took a lot of ibuprofen! On the east face of Snowpatch Spire (10,118 feet), one of the Bugaboos’ most prominent peaks is the Tom Egan Memorial Route. Mountain Project and Access Fund are partners in an effort to protect and preserve climbing areas and the environment. “Tom Egan Memorial Route,” answered Braz. “We rappelled the Sunshine route in some savage heavy weather, at one point getting clubbed by giant chunks of hail. It feels like a geological anomaly, like you shouldn't be there, like it's against some rules. We get along great and often bring the best out of each other. Hard to describe. “Matt fought like a champion but wasn't successful,” Stanhope wrote in the aftermath. They lived on the wall. Stanhope broke through his prior fall point and achieved a free ascent of the Drunken Dawn Wall pitch.